Another country (hot & green)
10.31.2003Santa Cruz is really another country. You notice it the moment you reach its territory. Outside the bus, the scenery changed drastically from yellow & grey mountain dessert views, to lush green rolling hills & celeste skies. While the Altiplano is vaguely depresing (sure, it has that sad, emo beauty), the sierras of Santa Cruz are eternal springtime.
Needless to say, I arrived, safe & sound, in my home city of Santa Cruz. Of course, no family visit's complete w/o family discussion (everyone's familiar w/ the Centellas "argument" gene). I met my cousin David, who drove me to my tío Jorge's house. My abuelito (grandpa) took it upon himself to pick me up from the bus station shortly after 6am (I arrived at 12:30!). So there was great debate about whos fault it was, etc. In the end, nothing was resolved, but we all agreed that everyone else "no sabe nada" ("don't know anything") and left it at that.
I enjoyed my first cup of real mate since I've been back in Bolivia. Growing up, "mate" meant "Argentine" mate, not the weak herbal tea drunk in La Paz. They're not the same thing. Real mate is 50% bitter herbs & 50% water, drunk piping hot, through a metal straw. And it's ritualistic, you share the same gourd, drinking the gourd dry, then refilling and passing it.
So I sat around, drinking mate w/ my tío Jorge, and my abuelitos. Tía Lloyda made sonso (mashed tapioca & cheese), which we enjoyed fresh from the oven. In one shot, two of my favorite camba foods were combined. It was a perfect homecoming.
Even the heat's refreshing. Of course, now it's the next day, and I'm sweating the moment I get out of the shower. But it's still a welcome change from high, mountain damp & cold. (Though I know that in a few days I'll be missing sweater weather.)
This should be a great holiday. I saw Siony at her office, congratulted her on her baby boy. I visited the Plaza 24 de Septiembre, which is just beautiful and green. I plan to spend the rest of the afternoon touring the old downtown of my memories, eating cuñapes & alfajores, drinking mocochinchi.
I'm in Santa Cruz. ¡Elay puej!
Posted by Miguel at 02:12 PM
Comments
have some cuñapes for me! those are my favorite... yum yum. thinking about havng some right now. can't wait to get down there!
Posted by: sam at October 31, 2003 05:02 PM
Greg is telling me that hippies are addicted to the matte. We are trying to figure out how to carry it in our coffee shop. Are things quieting down there? you think you are going to be back in July? I hope all is well.
dan
Posted by: dan at November 1, 2003 11:17 AM
Que bien que estas en Santa Puej! :) Bring me back some Mate! Please tell everyone hello, I miss them all. Enjoy Santa Cruz, I know you will. It's always very relaxing.
Posted by: Andres at November 3, 2003 10:14 AM