Cochabamba, here I come

02.12.2004

I leave tonight for Cochabamba. It's my first major trip since I've been to Bolivia (not counting family visits to Santa Cruz). I'm taking a few days' change of clothes & my Lonely Planet guidebook. I figure I'll stay four nights at a decent hostel. Friday & Monday are focused on research — w/ visits to CEDIB, and hopes of contacting Fernando Mayorga for an interview (or to at least schedule one).

The weekend, I'll spend touring the city. I've not been to Cocha (it's slang name) in about eight years. I've nice memories, especially visiting the monument to the Heroínas de la Coronilla — the source of Bolivian Mother's Day. In 1812, the city's women defended the city from Spanish royalist forces (and were massacred). The impressive monument sits atop San Sebastián hill, overlooking the city.

And there's lots of other (more cheerful) stuff to do. There's the Palacio de Portales, home of one of the world's riches men in the early 1900s, Simón Patiño (who rose from miner to controlling about 50% of the world's tin production). The place is impressive. Everything was imported: including the French architects, Italian furniture-makers, and Japanese gardeners. I'd give anything to live in what were once the stables. After the 1952 revolution, it became a national museum.

Or the Cristo de la Concordia, which actually stands a few centimeters higher than the (more) famous one in Rio. Making this the world's tallest Jesus. On Sunday you can climb up from inside. I've never done that, so it's on my checklist.

And then there's the food, of course. Cocha's famous for its food. Locals typically eat six meals a day. The late night "snack" of pique macho is a plate overflowing w/ grilled meats & vegetables, french fries, and hard boiled eggs. I've often shared one "serving" w/ at least another person (sometimes 3-4).

Hopefully, I'll get a chance to do a quick day trip into some of the countryside. I'll try to take lots of pictures to post when I get back. I have to leave Monday evening at the latest, since there might be another transit strike (72 hours this time) on Tuesday. Or not; this week's transit strike had almost no support and it looks like the sindicatos de transporto might just give up.

Posted by Miguel at 02:41 PM

Comments

Just a heads-up if you decide to go to La Coronilla. Over the past couple of years, it has become a place of petty crime (due to the high concentration of "cleferos"). There would always be some story in the newspaper of people getting robbed there.

Don't miss the teleferico up to the Cristo. Some days there were long lines, but it is well worth the smooth ride and great view.

A couple of suggestions on places to eat, one of my favorite pasttimes in Cbba: Salten~as Potosinas - Av. Ayacucho (entre Reza y Mexico); Brasil-Beruit (Brasilian food by the kilo).. it was so great, I used to go there 2-3 times a week (Colombia entre Junin y Ayacucho); Miraflores (for some great ch'anka de pollo) Juan de la Rosa ( a block from Libertador Bolivar).

Posted by: eduardo at February 12, 2004 06:43 PM

Thanks for the tips. I'll keep that in mind. And I'll be sure to hit up those restaurants. I love Brazilian food (what camba doesn't?).

Posted by: miguel at February 12, 2004 07:02 PM