Second day in Cochabamba

02.14.2004

My first full tourist day. Woke up at 8:15, headed out to see the city. Breakfast at Cafe Frances (couldn't find Salteņas Potosinas). The archaelogical museum was closed, so I hit a few churches instead. Then off to Palacio Portales, which was a long walk through much of the city. But I made it in time for the 11am tour.

I lunched near Plaza 14 de Septiembre at the vegeterian Restaurant Ganesh — which, like most vegetarian places, is run by Hare Crishnas. Best vegetarian food I've had in Bolivia yet, perhaps best vegetarian buffet ever. Wow. And the place was very colorfully decorated w/ great taste (not the tacky style at most Hare Chrisna places I've seen).

From there, I took a 25-minute micro ride out to Quillacollo. Not much there, except the shrine to the Virgen de Urkupiņa. I took a few minutes to walk around the plaza, noting the giant statue to UCS founder Max Fernandez (he was born in Quillacollo). The statue puts him in that oh-so-classic pose known as "the leader, hailing a cab."

Then off to Sipe Sipe (another 25-minute micro ride), thinking I could make it to the ruins of Inca Rakay. That was a poor decision. First, going alone off on a trek (and I don't normally trek) and thinking I could start so late in the day. I reached Sipe Sipe at 3pm. It was about a 30 minute walk to the foot of the very steep hill where the trail towards the ruins started.

But. I figured five months living in La Paz (much higher altitude than Cochabamba) walking 5-10 km a day, much of it uphill, would prepare me. Nope. I did get a good distance up the hill, though. I got to the peak of the hill; it took me just under 45 minutes. And then it hit me. The ruins aren't on top of the hill, they're another 5 km across the hill. Doh!

Well. I'd given myself until 5pm, which was my point of no return. After that, I'd have to turn back to at least make it to Sipe Sipe before nightfall. Walking down a 45 degree "stair" carved into a hill of sheer rock isn't safe.

It was 4:30. There was a campesino on the hilltop w/ a flock of sheep. I asked him (between breaths) if he knew how much farther it was to the ruins.

"Far," he assured me.
"Could I make it in a half hour?"
"No. Probably an hour."
"Do you have any coca I can buy from you?"
Laugh; "no."
"Oh. I suppose I should turn back, yes? If I want to make it back before dark?"
"Yes, probably."
"Oh, too bad. I'm sure the ruins are nice."
"I don't know; I've never seen them."

That's when it hit me. These ruins must be really, really far away. I turned around and headed back. The trip wasn't a waste, though. From up the hill I could see almost the entire Cochabamba valley, all the way to the city, and the Cristo de la Concordia (the world's tallest Jesus) off in the distanec. Breathtaking. Both literally, and figuratively.

Posted by Miguel at 08:15 PM

Comments

I wish i would of had more time to travel around when I was down there. I have not been to Cochabamba in a long time. Hope you are taking pictures!

Posted by: sam at February 15, 2004 02:07 AM

Yeah, I'm takig pictures. I'll post a few once I get back to La Paz.

Posted by: miguel at February 15, 2004 01:37 PM

curious, when you ask for coca what do you mean?

Posted by: vanessa at February 16, 2004 12:20 PM

I meant coca to chew. It's really good when you're tired, hungry, at altitude. Although it's the main ingredient in cocaine, it's also the main ingredient in lots of regular over-the-counter drugs. I'm used to drinking mate de coca (coca tea) when I've a headache or whatnot. But it's just as good (better, perhaps?) to chew the leaves.

Posted by: miguel at February 16, 2004 01:58 PM

You do realize that it's still an opiate (sp). Chalk it up to cultural differences, but that's strange to me that people do that often there. Does it make your mouth numb? Do we need to have an intervention, Miguel? (joke)

Posted by: vanessa at February 17, 2004 03:17 AM

Yes, I guess it is an opiate. But it's quite mild. And, honestly, I've never yet chewed coca, only drank it in tea. It does have a soothing effect. After all, most pain killers are coca derivatives. The reason why people use coca so much around here is just the altitude. You're at twice the altitude of Denver, and just walking around & day-to-day stuff can really wipe you out. Coca also alters your metabolism in such a way that it makes life at that altitude much easier.

Posted by: Miguel at February 17, 2004 02:31 PM