In Tarija
02.20.2004I think rain follows me. I arrived in Tarija on a drizzling, overcast day. Not as cold as in La Paz, of course, but I didn't pack any warm clothes. This, of course, gives me an excuse to buy a poncho chapaco.
The bus ride was an experience. Our driver was less-than-pleasant, and kept hurrying everyone up. Quite comical, actually. Since we'd stop for a few minutes (on a 24-hour trip, you want to eventually use a restroom) and would yell at people to hurry off the bus — while it was still in motion. Passangers being in good cheer, many would later taunt him to hurry up if he stopped at an intersection.
There was no movie on this trip (which might be a blessing). And we never stopped for a proper lunch or breakfast. Apparently, the driver was in a big rush — he was even in a contest w/ a driver from Tarija Express (we were on Expresso del Sur). Ironically, Tarija won — even though they stopped for a good lunch break.
The best part of the trip: Camargo. It's a dusty little town near the Chuquisaca-Tarija border known for its amazing goat cheese. And having the opportunity to jump off and buy a fresh pound. Heaven.
Just as we arrived in Camargo, the local school let out. Dozens of fresh-faced little kids in makeshift costumes & plastic masks paraded around their town's little plazuelita, accompanied by their teachers & a local band. There were water balloon fights, water pistol fights, and dancing around the town square as proud campesino parents looked on. And then, in blink of an eye, they were gone.
The rest of the trip saw the countryside break up from its red mountainside, to rolling green chapaco farmland. It's mid-summer here, so all the fields are in bloom & green, waiting for the harvest just weeks away. In the distance, down the last bits of mountain range, was the city of Tarija. The bus put on Radio Fides, and chapaco music as we rolled down towards the city.
If you want to know one thing that makes chapacos delightfully charming, it's their speech. They love to rhyme, and are quite natural at it. So almost every sentence is sing-song rhyme w/ a play on word or joke at the end. Even in their singing, chapacos routinely stop between verses for a quick round of joke telling. I don't think any chapaco is ever w/o a ready joke or sharp remark at hand.
Posted by Miguel at 04:17 PM
Comments
Now you have to try comida tarijeņa in el mercado, Saice it's the local specialty. According to everybody it's good, cheap and clean; personally I didn't try it when I was there, despite the fact that I really like saice (in other places). You also have to taste vino patero (home made wine) and empanadas de lacayote (pastries made out of something which resembles a pumpkin, only it is white).
Posted by: Daniel at February 20, 2004 08:25 PM
Please define Chapacos. Ummmm, goat cheese. Wish I could have eaten some with you.
Posted by: vanessa at February 21, 2004 02:58 AM
I wrote a definition of cambas, kollas, and chapacos here:
Posted by: miguel at February 21, 2004 12:33 PM
Don't fotget to sit down in the plaza central in the evening and see the women passing by!! And saludes para Hugo en su heladeria en la plazuela.
Tell him saludes de leo from Holland and the ice is for free.
And do have breakfast in the market in the morning, it's a great experience.
Hope the weather is fine because here in Holland is snowing at the moment.
Posted by: leo at February 23, 2004 06:11 AM
This also reminds me of the trip I just took there going all the way to Bermejo. Some great descriptions about the bus ride!!
Posted by: Javier at October 19, 2004 09:37 AM