Back in Iraq
11.29.2003Now that I'm Bolivia, I haven't really been keeping up w/ the blogosphere like I used to. But I was pleased to notice that there are many more Iraqi bloggers (here's a short list) around now that the regime's extreme censorship (e.g. killing & torturing thousands) has ceased. One of them also reports on an anti-terrorism demonstration in Baghdad. And, no, it wasn't aimed at the US.
I still think blogs can change the world.
Pictures from home
11.29.2003My brother Sam's been blogging like made lately, w/ several Thanksgiving holiday family pictures (can't blame him if they mostly focus on Novalí, his daughter). One of my cats even makes a cameo apperance.
Welcome to the future, Bolivia
11.28.2003I'm posting this from Kaneda (my trusty PowerBook) from the new wireless connection at Café La Terraza (thanks to Únespot, in La Paz, Bolivia. The first wireless spot in the country. It's not the fastest wireless I've ever used. But it's still pretty impressive. I have a "free pass" they've given out during the grand celebration event (e.g. free wine).
Right now there's a multimedia presentation at La Terraza on the whole concept of wireless internet (connección inalabrica) and the magic of Intel Centrino mobile technology (which means "blah, blah, blah" to this Mac user). It's not free, which is not something I'm used to. And I've not yet heard what the prices are (there's prepaid and unlimited monthly options) to know whether it's worth ditching my regular cyber cafés altogether.
A pretty model just tried to hand me an Intel brochure. I had the pleasure of saying: "No thanks, I'm a Mac user." I think she understood.
UPDATE: Prices for pre-paid Wi-Fi access through Únete are now available: Bs. 25 for 8 hours of wireless internet. That makes it about Bs. 3 per hour, cheaper than most cyber cafés.
Thanksgiven
11.28.2003Spent my first Thanksgiving w/o family w/ some fellow yanks at their apartment in Sopocachi. I brought my camera, but the candlelight made for some very not-good pictures. Nevertheless, the food was great, especially the stuffing (w/ walnuts), and the home-made mashed potatoes. Several paceños also showed up, and we had many interesting food-related conversations, such as the quest to find Spanish translations for all the myriad types of berries in existence. Paola came along, and had a good time. Although we had to leave early since dinner didn't start until 10ish, and Friday was another workday.
Continue reading "Thanksgiven"War of the Pacific
11.26.2003I decided to link to some info on the War of the Pacific (1879-1884) between Chile and Bolivia & Peru. OnWar.com points out that the war was based on a never-fully-settled territorial dispute in which the Bolivian government of the time was somewhat aggressive towards Chile. It also points out that a 1904 treaty formally ended the war & made present boundaries permanent. An entry in Wikipedia gives a similar view.
Continue reading "War of the Pacific"The Sea, The Sea, The Sea
11.25.2003I'm so sick of hearing about the issue of Bolivia's access to the sea. I mean, yes, I grew up singing the military march to the sea at least three times a day in Bolivian elementary schools — I couldn't remember the words to the national anthem, but I could always sing the Himno al Litoral w/ great conviction. Why's Bolivia poor? It's Chile's fault. Chileans are theives, and constantly plot the destruction of the Bolivian fatherland. Blah, blah, blah.
Why? Because in the 1870s, Bolivia & Peru faught a war against Chile. Like most colonial territories, the boundaries between states were sketchy at best. Look at recent history: Ecuador & Peru faught a war a decade ago over territorial disputes; Venezuela & Colombia still dispute their border; Argentina & Chile wrestle over desolate islands in the Antartic Ocean. So 125 years ago (that's four generations) the borders between Chile, Peru, and Bolivia were settled. By force. Even in international law, posession is nine tenths the law.
So why am I bringing this up? Because it's still a major issue in Bolivian politics. Mad, xenophobic anti-Chilean nationalism was a strong undercurrent in the October uprisings that overthrew Goni. He was accused of (heaven forbid!) trying to make a trade agreement w/ Chile to export gas. But the issue's still alive.
Days after Mesa took office, his Foreign Minister gave a speech in which Bolivia's access to the sea was a primary policy concern. And from there it started again. Even the UN Secretary General, Kofi Annan, got in the game. He's willing to offer his "good offices" to help resolve Bolivia's "legitimate right" to the sea (I didn't realize nation-states had "legitimate rights" on geography). Applause, applause from the populist peanut gallery. Then Venezuela's president, Hugo Chavez, made certain remarks that've led to the worst diplomatic crisis between his country and Chile in recent history (both countries have withdrawn their embassadors).
An editorial in La Razón made a clever point: If Chavez is so set on making sure Bolivia has a beach he can go swimming in, why doesn't he give us a slice of the Carribbean. After all, it has much nicer beaches. And in the end the issue's totally irrational. On so many different levels.
For example, Chile's not the only country that's taken Bolivian territory. Bolivia was once twice its current size. Why didn't we sing military marches about the more recent Chaco War w/ Paraguay (1930s). Or how about the loss of territory to Brazil? To Peru? To Argentina? Why focus only on Chile and the Litoral territories? Oh, yes, because when the military governments took over in the early 1900s, they used that issue to legitimate their role in "securing" the republic. And an entire nationalist pathology was born.
And why should Chile give back territory it won in a war 125 years ago? Should the US then give back the Southwest to Mexico? Should the African colonies go back to European hands? Should the Beijing government surrender to Taiwan? What boundaries in this world haven't been drawn by swords? Where's Prussia today? Or Alsace-Lorraine?
And why this idea that somehow having access to the sea would be a magic cure to Bolivia's economic ills? After all, I'm sure it'd mean more bureaucratic costs. And does anyone in Bolivia know how to manage a seaport? And let's say we get to ship our products from our ports in our ships. Don't we still have to transport them there? And to the same markets? What advantage would a port give us that a free trade agreement (e.g. no tariffs!) w/ Chile would provide?
Finally. The question no one ever asks. What of the hundreds of thousands of Chileans who live in Litoral? Ignore the fact that after the War of the Pacific, there was a referendum; they voted to be part of Chile. Ignore that. There are people, Chilean citizens now four generations or more, who've lived in Cobija, Calama, Antofagasta, and all the other "sacred" towns listed in the military march. What of their rights? Would they have to leave? Would they have to be foreign citizens in their own land of birth?
Oh, and I forget. We already do have access to the sea. We have free ports in Peru & Chile. There are hundreds of ships sailing the oceans under the Bolivian flag.
It's my dream that in my lifetime, a Bolivian politician has the courage to stand up and say: "Guess what, we're a landlocked country. And I'm OK w/ that."
Mesa swings back
11.24.2003It seems Mesa's finally realized he'll never befriend the populist left, no matter how hard he tries. So he's back to being a constitutional democrat, giving the middle class a huge collective sigh of relief.
Continue reading "Mesa swings back"Posted by Miguel at 02:03 PM | Permalink
If you want a Christmas card ...
11.21.2003OK. November's coming to an end. So. If you want a Christmas card from me, be sure to email me your postal address so I can send one off to you in time for it to arrive at your house. I plan on celebrating Thanksgiving (not a Bolivian holiday) by sending out a huge batch of Christmas cards to everyone, family & friends included. Oh, mom, please be sure to send me a list of family addresses.
Also, if you want to send me a Christmas card (or any mail), my address is the title of the post below. I go to the post office every day around noon to check my mail. I usually walk the narrow hallway towards my box, drag a step ladder next to my row (my box is at the very top), and climb up, just to find an empty box.
Placard wars
11.19.2003After Goni's overthrow, a general anti-MNR and anti-MIR (the two main parties member to Goni's governing coalition) feeling swept through much of Bolivia (esp. around La Paz, where is some areas it was a virtual McCarthy-esque witchhunt). It's not a good time to be a movimientista or a mirista these days. The Universidad Mayor de San Andres (UMSA), which like most public universities is a hotbed of political activity, was no exception.
Towards the end of last week, a group of students began protests (which, thankfully, didn't spill onto the Prado) to expell anyone associated w/ MNR and MIR from the university. Never mind issues of free speech, academic freedom, or other liberal democratic niceties. As part of the their protest, a few students "crucified" themselves on the main UMSA roof hoping to draw attention to themselves. Unfortunately, most passersby didn't seem to care.
Nevertheless, a counter-protest soon started against the troskomafiosos who launched the first attack. If you didn't know, Bolivia's a powerful Trotskyite center since the 1930s and radical Trotskyites have a major presence in the UMSA. Monday, a series of placards calling for the removal of the Troskyites from the university were plastered all over the UMSA walls.
That night, as I walked back from Sopocachi towards my apartment, a group of students were blocking out the anti-Trotskyite placards and replacing them w/ anti-MIR slogans. It seems the groups attacking the Trotskyite is led by several miristas (the MNR seems to be sitting this battle out). Over the last two days, placards go up and down, attacking one group, then the other in a tit-for-tat battle of slogans. My favorite is a mirista attack on a Troskyite leader, who's apparently been enrolled for 17 years but hasn't reached sophmore status yet.
(59-1) 772 386 01
11.18.2003Dad surprised me w/ a phone call at noon while I checked email. We chatted for a few minutes. He made a sketch of me and sent it in the mail; I can't wait to see it (my dad's actually rather talented). He also finally got a digital camera — and I think he might start blogging ...
I guess next week's Thanksgiving. Oh, yeah, and one month 'til my brother Sam visits.
No rest for Mesa
11.17.2003Back to writing about politics. I needed a break for a while. But I was invited to post in a group blog on Latin American politics/economics (Southern Exposure) as their Bolivian "correspondent", so I'll be sure to post on politics every Monday here and there.
Continue reading "No rest for Mesa"Dragonfly
11.16.2003Went to a disco last night w/ Paola. She seemed pretty excited (she likes dancing and hasn't been since she arrived in La Paz); too bad the place wasn't what I'd hope it'd be. Still, we had a pretty good evening. Pizza in Achumani, a stroll through San Miguel, then back up to Sopocachi for Dragonfly.
I keep forgetting that evenings start late in La Paz. Dragonfly didn't even open until midnight. So we took in some submarinos (steamed milk w/ a bar of chocolate) at Café Alexander, watching police "control" the young, upper class kids who gather to drink at Plaza Avaroa.
Dragonfly was supposedly "reserved" when we arrived, and a crew of very blonde, European-looking (and sounding) tourists were shooed away. Odd. Because the bouncers let Paola & I in w/o any problem. We thought that was pretty sad, though she's seen it before, foreigners not let into a dance club. You'd think clubs would want foreigners; they tend to spend lots of money.
In the end, neither of us liked the music (too much hip hop), our table seemed rather dirty, and the Singani wasn't all that good. But we passed the time finding out our favorite fruits, the names of our pets, our favorite seasons, stuff like that. It started getting smokey, so we left for a night stroll through Sopocachi. By the time we walked back to her aunt's house, I could hardly believe it was past 4am.
Too busy to write
11.12.2003I've been a bit busy the last few days, w/ barely enough time to read my email. I've also been feeling rather slow & tired. I guess hours of reading old newspapers every day does that to you.
Continue reading "Too busy to write"Buy Bolivia
11.11.2003I'm searching online for Irupana's website (an organic & fair trade Bolivian peasant cooperative that exports coffee, quinoa, and other products). They supposedly have a website (www.irupana.com), but it's not working. Huh. But I found Bolivia Mall, an online store where you can buy Bolivian products (including Irupana coffee). Anyone need some llajwa, coca tea, or alpaca sweaters?
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UPDATE: Apparently, Irupana's official website is www.irupana.org.
UPDATE: Reader David Treviño suggested the website www.cocatea.com.
Quick congrats
11.10.2003I'm so pressed for time, that I forgot my parents' 30th wedding anniversary (it's today). So: Congratulations, Mom & Dad! I wish I had time to write a little something, but I guess this old post will have to do. Better yet, read what my brothers Sam and Andy wrote.
I also missed my friend Caleb's first birthday since he married and moved to Portland, Maine.
La musica es amor
11.08.2003
The outdoor festival sponsored by Paceña (a Bolivian beer company) is off to a great start. Some of the best Latin American indie rock perform for three days. The show actually started on time (8pm), so we missed Octavia (La Paz indie rock giants). Stephen, Maria, Berushka, & I were in line to enter the Mariscal Braun stadium for most of Octavia's set.
But we got to see Aterciopelados (Colombia). Wow. Something like a cross between The Black Heart Procession & trance pop. Thousands of people cheering and singing along to bittersweet songs played to a joyful beat. The lights and video backgrounds were also amazing. And I had my trusty digital camera w/ me (so you can see how close I was to the stage!).
And then came Gustavo Cerati (Argentina). The ex Soda Stereo guitarist/vocalist has developed a cult following. Not that he doesn't deserve it; Soda Stereo was The Pixies of Latin America (and roughly contemporaries), and Cerati's a rock guitar god.
Only minutes after Aterciopelados played their encore, the crowd was chanting "¡Cerati! ¡Cerati!". voices rising and falling in unison, demanding the legend's appearance. By the time he took the stage, the crowd was in a frenzy.
Cerati's new style includes a lot of future pop elements (you can also hear a Joy Division influence), which makes for a very danceable rock. And when the crowd started chanting "¡Soda! ¡Soda!", he was kind enough to play three of his former band's songs, updated of course. I also appreciated the use of an iBook on stage (plugged into one of the Moogs).
Oh, yeah, it was a great show. We left after 1am, though another Bolivian band (Los Tocayos, not that good) took the stage. I think it was best to end on Cerati's mind-blowing performance. So we headed out for late night coffee at Café Ciudad, where we chatted and watched drunk people fall asleep at their tables.
I probably won't go to tonight's performance (too tired). But I'm thinking of going Tuesday night; La Ley (Chile) & Libido (Peru) perform, along w/ another Octavia set.
A model of inefficiency
11.05.2003When the concept of bureaucracy was invented, centuries ago, in India, it was the model of efficiency. Government tasks were organized & differentiated. Each task was categorized along a hierarchy of offices and secretaries. Each person had a specific task to do, in an quick & efficient manner.
Continue reading "A model of inefficiency"Back in the city
11.04.2003I'm back in La Paz. Catching up on email, and resting my body from a long bus ride through a less-than-modern highway system. But it was a good visit. Mostly just hung out w/ cousins I've not seen in years, and talking over mate or coffee w/ my abuelitos.
Not much to really write about. I did get to go to a soccer match w/ abuelito, which is always fun. Even if my beloved Oriente Petrolero lost 2-1 in a poorly refereed match against cross-town rival Blooming. But abuelito & I cheered our hearts out (even if he's from San Jose, not Oriente). The match ended w/ several yellow cards, two reds, and a post-game fight between teams.
There were also a few political discussions (of course). There's a dictum: Put two Centellas together in a room, and you've got three political parties.
After a brief visit, I got back on my bus to La Paz. I left in a warm tropical breeze, and arrived in the capital to an early morning chill. But I have to say that, all in all, I'd rather live in La Paz than in Santa Cruz. What can I say? I love sweater weather.
I also got back in time to pick up a package of comics (thanks Josh Upson!) from the post office. And to finally set a coffee date w/ the girl from the vegetarian restaurant.
Hallow-not
11.03.2003Didn't do Halloween. It's not a Bolivia holiday, after all. Although the trick-or-treat-and-dress-up is actually starting to become popular (especially around La Paz's Sona Zur). I guess all holidays are now international in our little global village. Oktoberfest? Saint Patrick's? Cinco de Mayo? Lunar New Year?
Continue reading "Hallow-not"Posted by Miguel at 05:08 PM | Permalink
Freelancing
11.02.2003This is now officially my first freelance column. Here's the unedited, original version: