Ciao!

Thinking about dissertation

Sometimes, a break from routine is just what you need. Having finished Life of Pi, I've been re-reading David Held's Models of Democracy (in my mind, the best overview of democratic theory literature). Going through Chapter 7, a thought suddenly struck me: A framework for dealing w/ post-October Bolivia!

Posted by Miguel at 10:47 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Dinosaurs & fútbol

Woke up early to catch the 9:30 am tourist truck out to the FANCESA dinosaur tracks. It's a tectonic plate that was pushed up to vertical some million of years ago. About 40 years ago, the FANCESA cement company, while digging the calcium-rich mountain, discovered a layer containing various dinosaur tracks from the Late Cretaceous period — a rare find, w/ hundreds of different tracks (and they're still finding more). It makes the site one of the greatest paleontological finds on the planet.

The tour was the most expensive to date at Bs. 30 (most museums are Bs. 5 for nationals, Bs. 15 for foreigners). But. They do include a convenient, colorful "dinotruck" to take us out there & highly competent guides. It's actually a rather impressive site, even if some of the tracks are slightly difficult to make out. It's also nice to know that FANCESA declared it won't dig up the tracks, but is instead looking for international funding to protect them permanetly & build a "jurasic park" of sorts for tourism.

From there, I got back to town for lunch. A really good curried tofu & rice dish at El Germen, one of two vegetarian places I found in the city. I plan on hitting the other one (a Swiss/Bolivian place) tonight for dinner.

Then off to Joy Ride Café for the Portugal v. Holland 2004 European Championship semi-final game. Glad I got there early; the place soon started filling up w/ ex-pats — most supporting Holland, dressed in orange shirts & face paint. I felt the lone Portugal supporter, until Portugal scored & a small group in the back roared in delight. It was a great, fast-paced game, ending w/ a 2-1 Portugal victory.

Of course, that meant it was too late in the afternoon for the trip out to La Glorieta. So I did some walking about & picture-taking. Entered San Francisco, an old church & monastery converted into an army barracs during the Wars for Independence (and still used as such). The bell atop the San Francisco tower's famous as the bell that called citizens out on the night when the first independence movement began in South America. Sort of like Philadelphia's Liberty Bell.

Hit the university's Museum of Natural History, a small salon w/ various stuffed animals lying about. The Anthropology Museum was closing just as I got to it, so I missed that one. Still, I saw enough in Sucre to make me a happy tourist.

My flight to Cochabamba was pushed up to noon, so I've to leave Sucre earlier than anticipated. Just enough time for some salteñas in the market, check out of my room, and a taxi ride out to the airport.

Posted by Miguel at 06:20 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

The Athens of the Americas

Started my first day in Sucre w/ a super vitamínico blended juice from the market. Then headed out for a tour of the Casa de la Libertad, where the official declaration creating the country of Bolivia was signed. In the small world department, I was in a tour group made up mostly of students from Santa Cruz's Colegio Britanico — where my tío Adrian (who goes by Felipe Adrian) teaches literature.

Posted by Miguel at 06:22 PM | Permalink | Comments (6)

In the White City

After a brief layover in Cochabamba, I'm now in Sucre. Checked into Hostal Charcas (Bs. 40 per night), right across from the central market (plan to eat breakfast there). I'm off for some coffee, and finish reading Life of Pi — my airplane reading material — what a great story!

So far I'm liking Sucre. It's got some amazing architecture. Just amazing. And every building in the downton is white. The hostel's comfortable, if not spectacular. But super centric. There's tons of museums to check off in true tourist style, including some dinosaur tracks just outside town. And since this is Bolivia's only "college town", lots of bohemian cafés.

Posted by Miguel at 06:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

A whirlwind two weeks

In two hours I get on a LAB plane, headed to Sucre. It's the official capital of Bolivia (even if La Paz usurped that power some time ago). It's known for its beauty & colonial architecture. I plan to spend my days strolling the streets, sitting at cafés, going to historical museums, and just generally enjoying some quiet time in a Bolivian city I've never seen. Lots of pictures planned, of course.

Then off to continue my little end-of-my-year-in-Bolivia tour starting w/ a brief stint in Cochabamba. One of the best vegetarian/vegan restaurant I've ever been to is there. Then, Tarija. The last week'll be spent in Santa Cruz, w/ my relatives. I hope there's a trip to Río Piraí & out to Samaipata involved. Let's hope.

I'll try to check my email as frequently as possible, but no promises. Any pictures I take will have to wait for posting until I get back to La Paz on 12 July. Ciao!

Posted by Miguel at 11:50 AM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Know when to hold 'em

W/ Jay back in town, we had ourselves another poker night at O Mundo Café. It was also Alison's despedida; she's going to southern France on an archaeological dig. Anyhow. I more than doubled my money at the end of the night, up more than Bs. 30.

Posted by Miguel at 04:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

Some data

Finally picked up the disaggregated electoral data I'd requested from the National Electoral Court. But. They didn't quite provide what I hoped for. The floppy drive I left for them (and picked up today) had electoral data disaggregated to the section of provice level (making for over 300 observations per election). But only for 1997 & 2002, as well as the 1999 municipal elections. I also wanted the 1985, 1989, and 1993 general elections, at least at the province level. Let's go back again ...

Posted by Miguel at 03:31 PM | Permalink

Along the Prado

Took a walk along the Prado yesterday, snaped a few pictures along the way. It's not the most representative sample, but it's places I see most every day. The centerpiece, of course, is Cine Monje Campero (the pink building), where I go for my months-after-opening-in-the-US movie experience. Click on any image to see larger view.

Posted by Miguel at 01:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (13)

Flight itinerary

I'm flying to Santa Cruz for a week w/ relatives. So. I decided to book a LAB Pass, since it cost only about Bs. 200 more than the simple La Paz-Santa Cruz flight. (Total cost of LAB Pass was $214.) It saves me time, since now I can fly into Cochabamba (work) & Sucre (pleasure). And. Since I needed a fourth city on my itinerary, I'm going back to Tarija again. Not a bad way to say goodbye to Bolivia, eh?

Here's the flight itinerary:

LB 0815 28JUN LPBSRE 1400 1600
LB 0816 01JUL SRECBB 1700 1730
LB 1842 03JUL CBBTJA 1550 1645
LB 0844 05JUL TJAVVI 1800 1850
LB 0932 12JUL VVILPB 2000 2100

I leave Monday. I'll be back in La Paz w/ 10 days left for despedidas & whatnot.

Posted by Miguel at 04:26 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

Democracy’s minimal conditions

The following ran in today's Tiempo Político. Below is the original/English version:

Posted by Miguel at 11:53 AM | Permalink | Comments (4)

My thoughts

Yesterday's march in Santa Cruz demanded regional political & economic autonomy. I won't hide my pleasure. It's not that I'm a secessionist; it's that I believe it's time that the centralist state so much responsible for much of Bolivia's problems should end. Some form of federalism (perhaps along the Spanish model) would benefit the country.

After all, Bolivia's a diverse country. It's not all alpaca sweaters & Altiplano. A large sector of the country feels (rightly or wrongly) ignored on the national political agenda. Recently, that sector's had the most vibrant economic growth. Now they feel exploited by a bureaucratically inefficient (not the mention corrupt) centralist state.

I'm happy that the numbers involved in the Santa Cruz march dwarfed any of the marches in La Paz. Even the ones that toppled Goni in October. What this should make clear is that pro-autonomy sentiment in Santa Cruz isn't driven simply by a minoritarian, landed elite. The pro-autonomy movement has grass roots sentiments that no national government can long ignore.

And. Most importantly. I'm glad the march was peaceful, despite such a large number. There are few truly "peaceful" protests in La Paz. This cruceño protest could serve as a model of temperance — there's no need to vandalize or assault to make a statement.

There are also some interesting things about this movement, however. While most protests in La Paz or the Altiplano are littered w/ national flags, the Santa Cruz marchers carried few — they carried departmental flags almost exclusively. And even though they proclaimed their desire to stay a part of Bolivia, they demonstrated the lack of nationalist zeal that marks protests in western Bolivia.

It's also interesting that many of the "traditional" parties (especially MNR & MIR) are joining the protesters. This makes sense, of course, since eastern Bolivia still votes heavily for those parties. Most of the deputies & senators from those parties represent eastern departments. It's yet another demonstration of the east-west split in political attitudes.

Meanwhile, the government still vacillates over what to do about Ayo Ayo. And the exchange rate has gone up another point, to Bs. 7.92.

Posted by Miguel at 03:35 PM | Permalink | Comments (3)

And now, Santa Cruz

Yesterday's pro-autonomy march in the city of Santa Cruz was well attended. Reports estimate more than 100,000 present (more than any COB march I ever heard of), many w/ the green-white-green departmental flags. The call was for a departmental referendum by the end of the year to determine whether Santa Cruz will govern itself autonomously (but still remaining part of Bolivia).

The leader of the Comité Cívico Pro Santa Cruz, Rubén Costas, spoke about continuing in the tradition of the once porciento — the fight almost 50 years ago demanding that at least 11% of departmental production remain in the department, rather than go to the capital. The new cruceño-led movement plants an 11-point agenda for regional political & economic autonomy.

In his speech, Costas exclaimed:

"We believe in our way of life. We believe in our [economic] development model, which sustains the country. We think differently. The cruceño loves his Patria w/ a son's love, that's why he can't allow that she be violated every day. Is it Bolivia that violates the laws? ... Is it Bolivia that has all the power of the laws in her hands & doesn't apply them? ... Or is it Bolivia that violates democracy? ... Is it Bolivia that eliminates the rule of law? ... Is it Bolivia that violates [the right to] property? ... Or is it Bolivia that doesn't believe in Justice? ... Is it Bolivia that kills her neighbors & authorities? ... Is it Bolivia that destroys? ... We aren't that!"

Despite the massive numbers, the entire event was peaceful. No dynamite, no attacking pedestrians. By 6:30, Costa's speech was over. Then the crowd burst into the Himno Cruceño, waving the departmental flags.

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I rescued this post from the now-defunct LivinginLatinAmerica.com. Original comments can temporarily be found on Google cache.

Posted by Miguel at 02:35 PM | Permalink

Secession in the Altiplano?

The Altiplano town of Ayo Ayo no longer responds to national authorities. They're in a de facto state of secession. They've set up a syndicate-led police & "intelligence service" — whose first priority is finding & arresting the family of the town's murdered mayor. The town's new government is headed by Cecilio Huanca (of the local agrarian syndicate), Gabriel Pinto (of MST, Movimiento Sin Tierra), and Ramón Copa (of Aroma Province). They've announced that they won't allow national state authorities into the town.

Continue reading "Secession in the Altiplano?" at Living in Bolivia

Posted by Miguel at 05:18 PM | Permalink

Sopocachi

Posted by Miguel at 04:24 PM | Permalink | Comments (0)

News brief

The Altiplano bloqueo ended (temporarily) last night after campesinos & government officials came to an agreement. Which includes the government paying for economic losses sustained by campesinos & transportistas during the weeks-long bloqueo. The dirigentes campesinos warn this is only a temporary move; several issues still require negotiation. But. For now. The roads are open to the Peruvian frontier.

Posted by Miguel at 03:49 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Bolivia bloggers

Though they're few, I'm compiling a list of bloggers who frequently write about Bolivia (in any language). I'll keep updating the list as I learn of other bloggers. Let me know if you want to be added to this list or know someone who should be added.

The following write for the Living in Bolivia blogzine, some also have their own personal blog:

Eduardo Avila (Barrio Flores)
Miguel Bultrago (MABB)
Daniel Bustillos (Kaikshon)
Miguel Centellas (Ciao!)

The following don't (yet) write for Living in Bolivia:

The Democracy Center (Blog from Bolivian)
Andrew Nystrom (Laughters)
Del Quintacho su Rincón
eOpinion PRODEMOS
Rocko's Blog
Patricia Espinoza Doria Medina (PEDM)
Alejandro Gonzalves (alegonzalves
Bolivia Te Amo
Almada de Noche
El Forastero
MueroEvoMuero

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UPDATE: I've long since stopped updating this list, as the number of Bolivian bloggers has grown exponentially.

Posted by Miguel at 03:16 PM | Permalink

Weekend update

Didn't get online at all this weekend. Had dinner at the gringo tambo w/ some new arrivals — who can't travel to their archaelogical dig site because of bloqueos. Pleasant conversation & good food.

Posted by Miguel at 02:34 PM | Permalink

What kind of crisis?

The Ayo Ayo situation spurred me to write a piece for Tiempo Político, the political punditry weekly published by La Razón. It's on the minimal conditions necessary for a democratic state. I'll focus on stateness — as Linz & Stepan succinctly forumated: "No state, no democracy." I'll send it out in a day or two.

I was having a conversation w/ Steven last night, going back & forth on the issue. It dawned on me that there are two different crises going on.

First, a crisis of the national state. It's no longer clear that there exists a common vision of a Bolivian identity, much less a belief in a common nation-state. This from both the Altiplano & the "media luna" departments.

Second, a crisis of the state economic model. That is, "media luna" departments seem content (for various reasons) w/ a neoliberal economic model. They oppose the nationalization of the hydrocarbons industry or other radical measures. The Altiplano opposes a neoliberal economic model, pushing for radical measures like nationalization of hydrocarbons.

With those pressures, and a government that a priori declared its unwillingness to use force to restore order, it's only a matter of time before the entire structure unravels. Unless Mesa's government can restore the national state's authority & legitimacy soon, a separation of the country into two or more independent republics is a real possibility.

Anyhow, I'll hash this out more tonight, then send it off to Tiempo Politico. I'll post an English version here. Also, some of the data that shows different voting behavior structures by region are here & here. It's only descriptive statistics data, but I've also run some OLS models that demonstrate a marked regional difference in voting behavior.

Posted by Miguel at 04:31 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Ayo Ayo at the eye of the storm

It's becoming more clear that the Bolivian state has lost authority in much of the Altiplano. A basic condition for any state — even a democratic state — is the state's ability to monopolize coercion, to be the ultimate arbiter of law & order. That no longer exists in much of the country. The state's unravelling at the seams. And. Unless Mesa's government decides to act swiftly, this could be the end of Bolivia.

Continue reading "Ayo Ayo at the eye of the storm" at Living in Bolivia

Posted by Miguel at 03:51 PM | Permalink

Text/reader

Spending the afternoon looking online (yes, not the best way) for a new IR textbook. The book I used several semesters ago was published in 1997, making it quite outdated. Too bad it's (in my opinion) the best textbook I ever found; I like the way it's organized/structured. But I should at least get something published this millennium, eh? And I figure I need both a textbook & a reader. So.

Unfortunately, the wi-fi I'm using is cutting in/out. Very frustrating. One of the things I miss most about living in Kalamazoo is just breathing reliable, high-speed wi-fi.

Posted by Miguel at 02:54 PM | Permalink

Political assassination

The exchange rate's finally gone up. I'm amazed it stayed steady over the course of so much political whodunits the past weeks. But. It's now Bs.7.91 (up a centavo from yesterday).

Posted by Miguel at 04:39 PM | Permalink | Comments (1)

Counting down

I'm packing up my apartment into suitcases this week, then preparing to couch surf for the last few weeks before flying back to the US. It just makes more sense. It also helps me figure out how much luggage I actually have, how much space is left, what it weights, how many knick-knacks I can bring for people.

Posted by Miguel at 01:52 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

Bolivia news roundup

[The LiLA upgrade accidentally left me w/o a working password. So I'm posting this here, rather than there.]

After the month-long standoff w/ striking public teachers, Mesa's replaced the Minister of Education. Donato Ayma frequently backpedaled when dealing w/ the strikers, often contradicting the stern line adopted by Mesa's government. Things got out of hand when La Paz teachers kidnapped & hospitalized a vice minister. Now, Soledad Quiroga (daughter of Marcelo Quiroga Santa Cruz) heads the Education Ministry.

Over the weekend, Mesa gave in to demands by Beni campesinos & removed the department's prefect. The new prefect, Fernando Avila, announced his commitment's to the department, not the central government. This in the wake of meeting between civic leaders from the four media luna departmnts (Santa Cruz, Beni, Tarija, Pando) denounced "Andinocentrism".

Meanwhile, the bloqueo towards Copacabana's lifted; the road to Desaguadero's still blocked.

NFR, the party of Manfred Reyes Villa, is suspected of plotting to overthrow Carlos Mesa's government. According to Evo Morales, who accused NFR of conspiring w/ Jaime Solares (leader of the COB). Despite fervent denials from NFR spokesmen, suspicions are high. After all, both Solares & Reyes Villa worked for the Luis Garcia Mesa dictatorship — which included Klaus Barbie in its ranks.

A few days ago, an NFR-sponsored march in Cochabamba became violent after municipal workers (the NFR machine dominates the city's politics) attacked citizens who whistled at them. The main aggressors were bodyguards of Cochabamba's former mayor, Reyes Villa. The march opposed the gas referendum. City employees were required to participate in the march.

The sea issue is again making all the front pages in anticipation of upcoming Bolivia-Chile summit meetings. In a surprise move, Bolivian diplomats now support Chile's argument that the issue is bilateral, not multilateral. The Bolivian position involves offering gas sales to Chile in exchange for access to the sea w/ sovereignty rights. Meanwhile, Lagos proposes greater regional economic integration.

Posted by Miguel at 01:18 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

How do you cure insomnia?

The past few weeks, I've been unable to sleep. Toss, turn, lie awake in bed for hours. TV doesn't help. Reading doesn't help. What do I do? I don't want to start taking sleeping pills or whatever.

This evening I've to watch dishes. They're all dirty. Insomnia makes me hungry. Well, not really hungry. Just gives me the munchies.

And I don't think I'm sick. Although yesterday I'd such a splitting headache, I didn't leave the apartment — or get out of my pajamas — the entire day. Tea w/ honey & lemon helped, even though I drank it out of a tall glass, Russian style, since all the cups were dirty.

Really. This is just ridiculous. A person needs his sleep. I used to know these breathing exercises that put one to sleep in seconds. Deep sleep, too. Why don't they work? Or maybe I'm not really trying?

I've too many things to do this week to be in a semi-zombie state.

Posted by Miguel at 04:10 PM | Permalink | Comments (23)

40 days & 40 nights

And I'll be back in Michigan. How time flies. Not much left to "do" before I head back. And having a well-paying teaching appointment to go back to sure takes a load off my mind. I know I can pay rent, eat, drink coffee for several months.

But I still need one more trip to Cochabamba, and a trip to Santa Cruz w/ a layover in Sucre (never been, need to). So time's starting to close up around me. There's many things I'll miss about Bolivia; but I miss my small-city life in Kalamazoo more. Sorry. Just how it is.

Daniel & Silvia came over this afternoon for coffee & pastries. Little Luciana's now walking, tramping freely all over the place. It's always nice to see them.

This week I'll try to wrap up all my La Paz "work" commitments. As much as possible. My remaining time will consist of gift-buying, travel-planning, and last visits.

Posted by Miguel at 05:13 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Good news

First, I'm feeling much better. Amazing what two days of hybernating in front of the TV can do. And just in time for the weekend! Vadik Barrón plays at O Mundo Cafe tonight.

Posted by Miguel at 04:04 PM | Permalink | Comments (8)

Sick, sick

The sudden snap in weather contributed to my near-constant runny nose. Even woke up w/ a nosebleed this morning. Think I blew my nose too much last night. Sucks.

Posted by Miguel at 03:44 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Why I ♥ Apple

Because they make the coolest stuff. Like the new AirPort Express. Wow. Oh, and it works for Windoze folk, too. Now. If they'd only make a handheld, portable Wi-Fi browser ...

OK. Time to pick up my laundry, and go call people's secretaries.

Posted by Miguel at 03:37 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

El corazón de Jesús

Saturday, I went to the movies w/ Jay. We saw El corazón de Jesús, the new film by Bolivian filmmaker Marcos Loayza. It's a pretty funny, yet profound, movie about a small bureaucrat named Jesús Martinez & his struggle to find a way to pay for his heart attack internment by cheating his insurance company.

Posted by Miguel at 03:19 PM | Permalink

Mesa, w/ pants on?

Mesa's government decided to take a strong line against protesters — especially the striking public teachers. The announcement came shortly after La Paz public teachers kidnapped the vice minister of Education, hospitalizing him. Teachers who didn't return to work today, are supposedly fired. (Let's see how that goes.)

Posted by Miguel at 03:17 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)

Milonga (Tango)

Posted by Miguel at 03:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (6)

Slow Saturday

Not doing much internet today at all; just stopped by a cyber cafe to check email. Got to the post office for a shipment of new comics (thanks Josh Upson). Really looking forward to DC: The New Frontier. Plan to go home, curl up on a couch, read comics all afternoon.

Milonga (Argentine tango dance party) last night. And I'm finally good enough to be less-than-awkward on the dance floor. Not too shabby. Tried taking some pictures, but most look terrible.

Today's the celebration of Gran Poder, a semi-religious festival from El Alto. Lots of alcohol, dancing, and merry making in the streets just above the Prado. At least it's better than a bloqueo. Still, I've lost all possible interest.

Posted by Miguel at 03:56 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

The current situation

Not sure if things are spiralling out of control for Mesa or not. He's stood on the edge of the abyss for a while now. The question is whether he knows how to turn around & walk back, build a bridge — or will he just fall.

Continue reading "The current situation" at Southern Exposure

Posted by Miguel at 05:40 PM | Permalink

Running around

Waiting for people's secretaries to call me back to schedule appointments. Not much fun. Recently, half of Bolivia's "public intellectuals" entered government positions. So their calls are now screened by personal secretaries on power trips.

Interviews are my least favorite part of this research project. Are they even necessary? Not really. Plus, I've never trained in interview techniques as a social scientist. I'm used to running election data analyses. So much simpler. Ah.

I went to the Instituto Nacional de Estadística (INE) — in a snazzy new modern building in Miraflores — to request some data. I can get census data a year prior to the 1993 & 2002 elections, so when I get back to Kalamazoo I can crunch tons of numbers & run fun OLS regression analyses.

Waiting for more electoral data from CNE any day. Then hoping for a quick trip to Cochabamba (will the roads be open?) for two snap interviews & data collection at CEDIB.

Also, just got reminded that yesterday was Annie's birthday. She's 4 years old. My fat cat's on a diet, so no birthday treats for her.

Posted by Miguel at 04:29 PM | Permalink | Comments (2)

Apologies for photo delays

Yes. I promised interesting photos. And I've only managed a few lately. Sorry. Been running around, often forgetting my camera in the process. Also, some pictures are hard to take. Not sure how to take pictures of Bolivian food. And the teachers' strike makes taking pictures of school kids difficult. Also, pictures of houses are difficult, since most have high walls around them blocking them from the street. But I'll figure this out, fret not.

Posted by Miguel at 02:40 PM | Permalink | Comments (5)

Mesa's Sorata?

Three dead in Beni after clashes w/ military & police. Jose Galindo, Minister of the Presidency, worries there's an effort to overthrow Mesa brewing. Meanwhile, MAS leader Evo Morales threatened a responsibility trial for the Beni clash.

Continue reading "Mesa's Sorata?" at Southern Exposure

Posted by Miguel at 02:30 PM | Permalink

Bolivia news roundup

Striking school teachers take a hostage; BONOSOL payments start today; internal splits w/in MAS continue; voter registration beats CNE expectations.

Continue reading "Bolivia news roundup" at Southern Exposure

Posted by Miguel at 05:16 PM | Permalink

Elenchos

I suppose it's not popular to defend the CIA. Or to suggest that a stereotype of all CIA workers as torturers obsessed w/ bending the world to America's imperialist sway might be over-exaggerated. Then again, isn't using a negative stereotype & applying it suis generis to an entire group the definition of bigotry? OK. Apparently not. That would be prejudice.

Posted by Miguel at 04:34 PM | Permalink | Comments (4)