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Peanut Soup
I find La Paz about the same as last time. Little has changed, names of restaurants have changed but the city seems about the same. I am enjoying having Miguel as a tour guide, he loves to immerse himself in a city and really get to know it, that makes it easy for me to learn the ins-and-outs of the city quickly. I was his tour guide in Santa Cruz, now the roles are reversed.
12-29-2003 Lunch with an Aussie
We had a great lunch. At Gringo Limon we met up with Miguel's friend Daniel's sister. Monica married an Australian who speaks little Spanish. They have a little boy, exactly Novali's age; he was born on April 12th, two days after Novali. It was funny cause I saw the same language struggle as Novali in Benjamin. We exchanged funny kid stories and ate a great lunch. Darrel said he loves Bolivian asado (BBQ), so we became friends right away. Nothing like a big piece of well cooked Bolivian food, yum. Surprisingly though I only ate peanut soup and chu\'96o, no red meat. I will make up for that at dinner I am sure.
Then Miguel and I headed to the bank, the same one I used to change money in Santa Cruz. I was surprised to not find two hot Bolivian girls (Cruceñas) working the door, all the banks in Santa Cruz would have hot chicks there. They usually were just standing around doing nothing, maybe helping someone use an ATM, or trying to give directions, but mostly just beautifying the environment.
Off to the market. Miguel just moved, so we had to restock his fridge. We went to his little neighborhood market to get the essentials, well what Miguel calls essentials. This being yogurt, crackers, jam, granola, you know... all that healthy stuff. Miguel is preparing his kitchen (the only room that actually really has stuff in it) and I am blogging waiting for some coffee. While I wait I will describe Miguel's new place (photo coming soon as well).
You enter into the living room, beautiful hardwood floors with windows lining one wall, and no furniture. That room blends into the dinning room, same flooring and windows, except here we find a small breakfast table, two chairs and a big cardboard box holding up Miguel's comics and a few books. To your left is the hallway; the first left is a nice spacious bedroom and to the right the huge bathroom, down the hall the kitchen and breakfast nook. The bedroom is really nice, big and roomy. Right now just a bed, suitcases and a speaker set (the woofer is Miguel's makeshift desk) fill the room. The kitchen is at the complete end of the hallway, small but has everything a one-bedroom apartment needs, except a working outlet. The nook has the fridge (no outlet in the kitchen) and has cool square windows lining one wall giving a great natural light into the room. Matched with a beautiful view out the front door, close market and internet cafes, pretty much the prefect apartment. ~ Does this sound like a real estate add or what?
We are heading out to explore La Paz a little more and meet up with Darrel. So more pictures and walking up-and-down and then more up-and-down, and then up-and-down through the streets of La Paz. Our first trip was to the Valle de la Luna. Which is high up on the outside of La Paz. Talk about an amazing view. You could see the city and how it is nestled right in the valley, or get a close look at a few houses and how they built them on the edges of cliffs, and finally a great view of the La Paz golf course, which Darrel said is awesome to play.
Then we headed to San Miguel, always the popular spot. We were looking for a place to get some coffee and an afternoon bite. We found a nice place on a corner and enjoyed more conversation. We parted ways and headed home.
Our nighttime activity would be a peña. This is when you get a late dinner, and there is a folkloric show during your dinner. Our Tio Eduardo and Tia Teresa invited us, tio said he called and found a place open on a Monday night (most are just weekends). So we met up with them and headed out. Too bad the place was a closed, so we droving trying to find something else to do, and luckily we found another place.
It was great, the five-man band played songs from all the regions of Bolivia. They played some great songs, and one of my favorite salles. I had the best piece of trout ever and everyone ate like kings. Afterwards we went driving and stopped at this place called las belas. It is a late night food place (it was now 12:30) and they have everything from antecucho (heart meat and potato on a shish kabob) and chicharron (kind like Mexican chorrizo) sandwiches. I got a sandwich, and much to Miguel's disgust even got the lettuce on it. I have no fear on eating street food, maybe that is why my stomach hurts so much here. Either way my tongue is happy and I can say I tried it all!
12-30-2003 Oruro
We got to the bus station at 6:30am. Tickets to Oruro were only 10bs, which means about $1.40, cheap! Martin, Miguel and I slept the entire way on the bus. I love those buses, huge, you can recline nearly all the way back, and kids are in the aisles selling things in case you forgot something. It was a fast 3-hour trip and a brand-new highway.
We arrived and the city was exactly what I expected, not much. The city is an old mining town, of which nearly all the mines are closed and the city survives off of a little tourism and mostly off carnival, which is the biggest in Bolivia there. They practice all year round and have many famous dances, but this is not carnival season.
The museums were cool, we walked through and old mine and saw many ancient artifacts. The old world culture was very evident in the town. The plaza was well kept the municiple building had a long line of people there complaining about something, just like any good Bolivian town. We walked and saw the old buildings and then headed to lunch. We ate a feast. I got lamb ribs, but I swear they brought half of the lamb! It was served with just one potato, meat and potatoes. I was in heaven. Some ice cream to finish the meal and then we headed back to the bus terminal. It was a short visit, Martin had to be back for a dinner and there was not much to see anyways. The trip was well worth it! The stories from the bus terminal, sellers on the bus, goofy tour guides, old buildings, and a hot mom (right Martin?). Too many stories to post here, but pictures will be coming soon.
We got back and relaxed a little and got ready to go out. Daniel called and we met up with him and another of Miguel's friends and went to the coolest little bar. It was like just out of the movie swingers! Slow music playing, nearly empty, bartender knows everyone and tells jokes, no sign out front, and you know you are with good company. The bartender and I had fun making new drinks and trying to stump me on what was in them. I learned some awesome drinks, Illimani, we made a new one called 'Samuel', rusty nail, etc. It was great.
Paola and a friend showed up as well, just after Daniel left. I almost felt like a regular by then, had my same seat as new people came in and cracking jokes with the barkeep. Good times. We finished our drink and went to Cafe Ciudad. It was past 10 and I had not eaten since 1 so I was hungry. A pique machu later we took off. They were heading home, and I was off to meet my primo Martin to see more of the La Paz nightlife.
I met him and a one of his girlfriends at a bar called Green. It was decorated with all old rock memorabilia. Billy Joel, Pink Floyd, Beatles, Elton John, etc. The music was great and they taught me a card came. As usual I had beginners luck and we had a good time chatting. Then off to Mangos.
Mangos is a famous bar here. It was where most tourists go, and the Bolivian girls go to pick up rich foreigners; well that is what Miguel said. I am not rich, and only half foreign so I did not worry a lot about it. The place was different then I expected. Yes a lot of travelers, but not much 'picking up' was going on. We got a table and I tried a few different drinks, a special micro brew, a 'latin lover', and some white russians later we took off. Time for bed.
12-31-2003 Cafe con leche
I got up early today and ran down (you literally run down because Miguel lives on a major hill, you have a to take a taxi home it is so steep) to the local wireless coffee shop. Miguel was still sleeping and I am not sure when he will show up. I like being alone and walking the streets at my own pace and stopping when I want. Right now 'The Lady in Red' is playing, kind weird.
Once he arrives we are off to the San Francisco plaza area. That is the big old cathedral in La Paz, and also the big tourist area. We will hit up the witches market (I need some eye of newt and cat nail), get some touristy things and just chill. Then lunch with more family. Still no defined plans for tonight. We have several options, Miguel runs with a few different clicks here. Either way I am excited for a New Years in La Paz.
Well back to my coffee, waiting for Miguel, and high school memories of the lady in red song. Ah...
HAPPY NEW YEARS to all! See you all soon!
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