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HAPPY NEW YEARS
Last night was an adventure. Miguel and I were going to spend new years with some of his American friends (also Fullbright Scholars) and go to a party some Brazilian´s were throwing. We finished our afternoon shopping and headed home to change.
12-31-2003 Four Americans, a Brazilian Party and Techno
We planned just a casual new years thinking the Brazilian party would be crazy. As we walked down to meet Steve and Maria we got a call from Steve. He was just told that the party has a theme, you had to be wearing blue and white, and bring a bottle of Rum or Wiskey. I brought nothing blue and white, and Miguel just dropped his white dress shirts off at the cleaners...Whatt to do?
The four of us went to dinner and discussed plans. Neither knew who was throwing the party, or even where it was. We ate at a great little Cuban place and came to the conclusion that if we did not go dressed it up it would be fine. Figuring after some drinks and partying with Brazilians they would not care anyways.
While at the store getting the drinks, I had a novel idea...Why not get white lab coats from a grocery store and wear those? The gang loved the idea and we asked. The first few places said no, and looked at us very strangely for asking. Finally as we headed to Steve´s apartment a little hair salon let us borrow two of their little outfits. Miguel and I, wearing the least blue and white (non actually) got the two smocks. Maria had a light blue sweater on and then tied a sheet around her waist for the blue and white thing. Steve wore a white undershirt on top of his shirt and wore bluish green leather jacket on top. We were ready for the party, bring on the Samba!
We met up with the Brazilian girl, who dressed nicely as opposed to our ragtag outfits, who knew the place and off we went. As we came close to the place we realized this was not what we had expected. This party was not an apartment party, with tons of crazy partying Brazilians. The place was a house, three stories with a huge courtyard and straight up money. There was a guest list. Most of the people in suits, or dressed like rock stars. Free drinks, free food, free champagne, and even a fireworks show at midnight (4th of July type private show). It was amazing.
Throughout the night in the yard there was a DJ, a live band, and even a girl who twirled these ropes with fireballs on the ends. It was crazy. The crowd was mixed, half people above 40, then other all about our age (20-30). The music was all house trance (techno kinda), no samba but still towards the end even the old people danced. People were showing up all night, we left at 4am and people were still just coming in. I had fun getting to know Miguel´s friends and just having a cool new years. Very memorable. What a house! What a party! What a new Year!
Resolution? Not going to share those here. But I want to highlight some interesting Bolivian traditions. Underwear. All week they have been selling at all the stores and local stands lots of red and yellow underwear for women. Finally we asked what was up with that (it is strange to see cholas selling red and yellow thongs all over the streets)? The vendor said that if a girl wears red it means she wants love this year, and especially tonight. The yellow are hoping for a good fortune and money. Pink ones were hoping for good health for the year.
Another tradition. Counting money. In all the streets you could buy fake American money, in large quantities. At midnight they said if you count tons of money you will have a good new year financially. The Brazilians put 12 grapes in their champagne, and as they eat each grape hey say a wish for the new year. Interesting traditions.
1-01-2004 Whole New Year!
This morning I still got up early. I ventured out around 10:30am and saw this town deserted. I mean totally empty. I took a cab to the market area we went to yesterday afternoon and it was dead. One or two little stands were open, but that was it. The once jammed intersectionion was completely clear and crossing the street did not make me fear my life.
I went back home and woke up Miguel. We got lunch, I had fricase and now we are waiting for a Bolivian movie to start. Los Hijos del Ultimo Jardin. Looks pretty interesting.
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Peanut Soup
I find La Paz about the same as last time. Little has changed, names of restaurants have changed but the city seems about the same. I am enjoying having Miguel as a tour guide, he loves to immerse himself in a city and really get to know it, that makes it easy for me to learn the ins-and-outs of the city quickly. I was his tour guide in Santa Cruz, now the roles are reversed.
12-29-2003 Lunch with an Aussie
We had a great lunch. At Gringo Limon we met up with Miguel's friend Daniel's sister. Monica married an Australian who speaks little Spanish. They have a little boy, exactly Novali's age; he was born on April 12th, two days after Novali. It was funny cause I saw the same language struggle as Novali in Benjamin. We exchanged funny kid stories and ate a great lunch. Darrel said he loves Bolivian asado (BBQ), so we became friends right away. Nothing like a big piece of well cooked Bolivian food, yum. Surprisingly though I only ate peanut soup and chu\'96o, no red meat. I will make up for that at dinner I am sure.
Then Miguel and I headed to the bank, the same one I used to change money in Santa Cruz. I was surprised to not find two hot Bolivian girls (Cruceñas) working the door, all the banks in Santa Cruz would have hot chicks there. They usually were just standing around doing nothing, maybe helping someone use an ATM, or trying to give directions, but mostly just beautifying the environment.
Off to the market. Miguel just moved, so we had to restock his fridge. We went to his little neighborhood market to get the essentials, well what Miguel calls essentials. This being yogurt, crackers, jam, granola, you know... all that healthy stuff. Miguel is preparing his kitchen (the only room that actually really has stuff in it) and I am blogging waiting for some coffee. While I wait I will describe Miguel's new place (photo coming soon as well).
You enter into the living room, beautiful hardwood floors with windows lining one wall, and no furniture. That room blends into the dinning room, same flooring and windows, except here we find a small breakfast table, two chairs and a big cardboard box holding up Miguel's comics and a few books. To your left is the hallway; the first left is a nice spacious bedroom and to the right the huge bathroom, down the hall the kitchen and breakfast nook. The bedroom is really nice, big and roomy. Right now just a bed, suitcases and a speaker set (the woofer is Miguel's makeshift desk) fill the room. The kitchen is at the complete end of the hallway, small but has everything a one-bedroom apartment needs, except a working outlet. The nook has the fridge (no outlet in the kitchen) and has cool square windows lining one wall giving a great natural light into the room. Matched with a beautiful view out the front door, close market and internet cafes, pretty much the prefect apartment. ~ Does this sound like a real estate add or what?
We are heading out to explore La Paz a little more and meet up with Darrel. So more pictures and walking up-and-down and then more up-and-down, and then up-and-down through the streets of La Paz. Our first trip was to the Valle de la Luna. Which is high up on the outside of La Paz. Talk about an amazing view. You could see the city and how it is nestled right in the valley, or get a close look at a few houses and how they built them on the edges of cliffs, and finally a great view of the La Paz golf course, which Darrel said is awesome to play.
Then we headed to San Miguel, always the popular spot. We were looking for a place to get some coffee and an afternoon bite. We found a nice place on a corner and enjoyed more conversation. We parted ways and headed home.
Our nighttime activity would be a peña. This is when you get a late dinner, and there is a folkloric show during your dinner. Our Tio Eduardo and Tia Teresa invited us, tio said he called and found a place open on a Monday night (most are just weekends). So we met up with them and headed out. Too bad the place was a closed, so we droving trying to find something else to do, and luckily we found another place.
It was great, the five-man band played songs from all the regions of Bolivia. They played some great songs, and one of my favorite salles. I had the best piece of trout ever and everyone ate like kings. Afterwards we went driving and stopped at this place called las belas. It is a late night food place (it was now 12:30) and they have everything from antecucho (heart meat and potato on a shish kabob) and chicharron (kind like Mexican chorrizo) sandwiches. I got a sandwich, and much to Miguel's disgust even got the lettuce on it. I have no fear on eating street food, maybe that is why my stomach hurts so much here. Either way my tongue is happy and I can say I tried it all!
12-30-2003 Oruro
We got to the bus station at 6:30am. Tickets to Oruro were only 10bs, which means about $1.40, cheap! Martin, Miguel and I slept the entire way on the bus. I love those buses, huge, you can recline nearly all the way back, and kids are in the aisles selling things in case you forgot something. It was a fast 3-hour trip and a brand-new highway.
We arrived and the city was exactly what I expected, not much. The city is an old mining town, of which nearly all the mines are closed and the city survives off of a little tourism and mostly off carnival, which is the biggest in Bolivia there. They practice all year round and have many famous dances, but this is not carnival season.
The museums were cool, we walked through and old mine and saw many ancient artifacts. The old world culture was very evident in the town. The plaza was well kept the municiple building had a long line of people there complaining about something, just like any good Bolivian town. We walked and saw the old buildings and then headed to lunch. We ate a feast. I got lamb ribs, but I swear they brought half of the lamb! It was served with just one potato, meat and potatoes. I was in heaven. Some ice cream to finish the meal and then we headed back to the bus terminal. It was a short visit, Martin had to be back for a dinner and there was not much to see anyways. The trip was well worth it! The stories from the bus terminal, sellers on the bus, goofy tour guides, old buildings, and a hot mom (right Martin?). Too many stories to post here, but pictures will be coming soon.
We got back and relaxed a little and got ready to go out. Daniel called and we met up with him and another of Miguel's friends and went to the coolest little bar. It was like just out of the movie swingers! Slow music playing, nearly empty, bartender knows everyone and tells jokes, no sign out front, and you know you are with good company. The bartender and I had fun making new drinks and trying to stump me on what was in them. I learned some awesome drinks, Illimani, we made a new one called 'Samuel', rusty nail, etc. It was great.
Paola and a friend showed up as well, just after Daniel left. I almost felt like a regular by then, had my same seat as new people came in and cracking jokes with the barkeep. Good times. We finished our drink and went to Cafe Ciudad. It was past 10 and I had not eaten since 1 so I was hungry. A pique machu later we took off. They were heading home, and I was off to meet my primo Martin to see more of the La Paz nightlife.
I met him and a one of his girlfriends at a bar called Green. It was decorated with all old rock memorabilia. Billy Joel, Pink Floyd, Beatles, Elton John, etc. The music was great and they taught me a card came. As usual I had beginners luck and we had a good time chatting. Then off to Mangos.
Mangos is a famous bar here. It was where most tourists go, and the Bolivian girls go to pick up rich foreigners; well that is what Miguel said. I am not rich, and only half foreign so I did not worry a lot about it. The place was different then I expected. Yes a lot of travelers, but not much 'picking up' was going on. We got a table and I tried a few different drinks, a special micro brew, a 'latin lover', and some white russians later we took off. Time for bed.
12-31-2003 Cafe con leche
I got up early today and ran down (you literally run down because Miguel lives on a major hill, you have a to take a taxi home it is so steep) to the local wireless coffee shop. Miguel was still sleeping and I am not sure when he will show up. I like being alone and walking the streets at my own pace and stopping when I want. Right now 'The Lady in Red' is playing, kind weird.
Once he arrives we are off to the San Francisco plaza area. That is the big old cathedral in La Paz, and also the big tourist area. We will hit up the witches market (I need some eye of newt and cat nail), get some touristy things and just chill. Then lunch with more family. Still no defined plans for tonight. We have several options, Miguel runs with a few different clicks here. Either way I am excited for a New Years in La Paz.
Well back to my coffee, waiting for Miguel, and high school memories of the lady in red song. Ah...
HAPPY NEW YEARS to all! See you all soon!
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El Alto
When most people arrive in La Paz the altitude hits them and they have a hard time breathing and getting around. The city sits at about 3,700 meters, I say about because it varies. The city is in valley, the high points get to around 4000, and the low parts to 3200. All that up and down wears you out, not to mention I was sick when I got here. I am going to have a tough first few days. Here is the count.
12-27-2003 Dumbos
We arrived in La Paz. I could feel the altitude right away. The beauty of the city, chizeled out of a rocky mountain valley, lights climbing and dropping over the sloped horizon, and our taxi hurling down the windy road hugging curves and mounting speeds bumps... Ah, La Paz. We stopped at Miguel's new apartment in Sopocachi for just long enough to drop off our bags and then we headed to the San Miguel neighborhood to meet our cousin Martin for dinner.
Walking through San Miguel brought back great memories. The small little village style neighborhoods present a unique style of created communities with their own everything. One found memory of this area was at the Dumbo ice cream shop when we ran into some of the Bolivian national soccer team. So when they mentioned that place to eat, I was all for it. Some Pique Macho, and coca tea and now I really am reminded of my previous trips here. Then we walked to Martin's house. Our tio Juan (abuelito's brother) was there and we said hello, he was on his way out. So we grabbed a few of Miguel's things he left there and headed home.
Tomorrow we will move the last of Miguel's things from his old apartment on the Prado. Then an afternoon asado at Martin's and some relaxing. We are planning a Monday trip to Oruro, which is one of the older and more untouched cities in Bolivia, and it is were my dad was born.
12-28-2003 Soroche
We woke up and headed to the Prado, which is the main downtown strip. That is where Miguel used to live and we went to get a few more of his things. Then we went to his wireless internet cafe right there and I had more Mate de Coca cause the altitude was bothering me.
As we started to walk towards the street to get a MiniBus to the San Miguel district we saw clouds moving in. The beauty of being in such a high city was that the clouds were barely above our heads. It was a great site, until it started raining. Then we hussled a little. We caught our mini and made it to San Miguel, from there on foot we went to the house. We hiked pretty fast. On arrival I felt terrible, but I sucked it up and just drank some mate de coca and went on with the day. They cooked a great feast, an asado, grilled meat, coclo (corn on the cob), salad, and little potatoes (seriously the little ones taste better). I, of course, ate a lot and it was awesome.
However the altitude made it worse. My head started to pound and now my chest was hurting. I had to lay down. After a long nap and more mate de coca I started to feel better. Miguel got me some Sorojchi(that is the name of altitude sickness) pills and after relaxing on the couch and talking politics and other world issues I felt better.
We decided to take off and head back downtown. I wanted something light, like soup or something to help get me adjusted to La Paz. We went to another cafe Miguel likes, and there we were met by Miguel's friend Daniel Bustillos. He studied at CMU with Miguel and they have remained friends. I had only met him the one time at our house and Saginaw and he was very nice. He met us with his wife and one year old little girl. It was a nice relaxing light dinner and coffee catching up on things. Then we drove around a little and saw some more plazas (La Paz has a little plaza on every other corner) and he dropped us off.
Tomorrow we will sleep in, the Oruro trip has been moved to Tuesday due to me probably not being ready for the high alto tomorrow. So we will do some shopping, see some sights and relax. My blogs will also be a little shorter, I had been using the computer my cousin Martin bought that I was bringing for him. Now he has his machine, and I am without a computer... very hard for me, but I will survive. I have my trusty jumpdrive and my digital camera and with internet cafe's costing only 3Bs an hour I will be fine.
12-29-2003 Sweater Weather
While Miguel is showering and getting ready I am taking the chance to write from his computer. Today is another sweater day, well actaully everyday in La Paz is sweater day. Everyone wears a sweater in the morning, it starts out about 4 degree centigrade. By afternoon it will be a nice calm 25 degree, big change huh. Then by night time you need the sweater again as it starts to cool down. Such a change from Santa Cruz were it is so hot and humid you wear no undershirt and buy the coolest polyester shirts you can to stop from sweating all day. Now I leave the house in 3 or 4 layers and carry a bag with me for when I need to remove layers. I need to get one of those cool little Bolivia auyao bags.
We walked to get Miguel's mail, all along the way I took pictures. We stopped to eat some tucumanas, which are a mix between salteñas and empanadas, very good. Then we walked some more on the what feels like always uphill terrain. I am quite the tourist with my digi cam. It was a good experience to watch Miguel get his mail. First we went to his post office box, he grabbed his mail and had a slip stating he had a package (comics for sure). Then he had to ask around at which desk to go for his package. They have desks for people with big packages, small packages, medium packages, international packages, etc. Miguel had to go to one desk, pay more money, and then was given his package to take to customs. They opened it, looked at, then stamped his four different forms he had for that package. What fun.
Now we are at the wireless cafe, I am using his laptop and waiting for our coffee. After I post this he will use the computer and I will sneak into the United Colors of Benneton store next door. Then for lunch we are going to this place called the Gringo Limon for some good Fricase. Yum yum.
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